Monday, June 13, 2011
There’s nothing like this in Paris
Burgers as big as your head. Literally.
When I saw the $42 cheeseburger on the menu of M. Wells, the much ballyhooed restaurant in Queens that’s set in an old diner, I couldn’t imagine why it cost so much. Until I saw Chef Hugue Dufour spearing the patty that could feed four with a steak knife and adding a stack of onion rings to it. This place is no ordinary restaurant.
But there are French touches. The chef is from Montreal and has imported some Gallic ways and ingredients.
Oysters with a coffee sabayon, tuna tartare covered in mustard seed, and escargots and bone marrow. I tried them all and now add oysters to my list of “didn’t know I liked it” list. Bone marrow? Non.
Alas, we didn’t order the burger, but my gentleman friends, Bennie and Kev, did order the ribs for two and there was nothing subtle about that dish either. I think I was so mesmerized by the platter of meat and frites delivered to our table that I forgot to take a “before” photo, but caught the impressive “after” evidence.
And after my relatively modest meal of crab bread pudding, it was time for “my” course: dessert. Bennie insisted on the banana cream pie.
I rallied for the $16 Paris Brest.
Was it as good as Philippe Conticini’s masterpiece, the best brest in Paris?
No. But it was a beautiful taste of Paris. In a crazy New York setting.