Sunday, September 19, 2010

And then there was Capri

After all the sun, booze, pizza, booze, pasta, booze and silliness in Positano, Capri took a healthier turn.

I was there for three nights and, while I was bummed not to be living it up at the Caesar Augustus or J.K. Place, or brushing elbows with Jay-Z or George Clooney (ah, Clooney), I found another thing I was looking for: nature. In fact, I discovered three amazing hikes: one for each day.

On the first day, I just sort of happened upon a trail that took me out to the Arco Natural reserve on the beautifully sculpted eastern coast. To die.

It went down, down, down and then curved around...

... past the famous Faraglioni rocks...

...and back into town.

(Where I had a gelato, of course. Just a wee cono piccolo, which, yes, was as delicious as it looks.)

The second day’s Sentiero dei Fortini hike was utterly amazing. It was the longest of the lot, stretching from the northwest corner down to the southwest, hugging the shoreline and alternately cutting into piney patches of woods and out into arid swaths of land.

Along the way, these lovely ceramic tiles, designed by Sergio Rubino, described the local birds, insects, trees, herbs and flowers.

And I nary saw a soul.

I traipsed across these lunar rocks.

Up stairs. Down stairs. And across bridges.

With only the sound of motorboats in the sea and geckos in the brush to accompany me.

And finally! I saw the lighthouse in the distance, signaling the end of the hike was near.

When it was, I was rewarded with a day of lounging at Punta Carena.

Poolside service, dips in the Mediterranean, Bret Easton Ellis smut, and dozing in the sun. My little slice of heaven.

(And hey kids! No reason to feel sad about dining alone!)

The third day took me up Monte Solaro, the highest point of the island.

The trail itself was less beautiful, but a good, ass-kicking workout (to counter the two homemade chocolate-filled croissants I had every morning at my hotel for breakfast).

I even beat these chumps, riding the chairlift to the top.

So while I didn’t hobnob with Euro jetsetters, or shop at Prada or Dolce & Gabanna, it couldn’t have been a better finish to my Italian getaway.



  1. Oh my gosh these pictures are amazing! Looks like an amazing trip :)

  2. Sigh. I try so hard not to be envious of others, then I come across a blog post like this and it's all for naught. Damn you, Godiloveparis (shaking fist at the heavens)!

    Looks like a fabulous time was had by all! (-:

  3. And you will return to the States, why exactly? ;-)

  4. Oh Amy, what a lovely holiday .. all that walking and fresh air.. do you feel very healthy ? you look great !
    But that might just be the chocolate croissants :)

    I will be sure to get my husband to read this one ! photos are fabulous ways to convince ones husband that another International Move might be fun.

    un beso, C

  5. Great photos! I so want to go on holiday now xxx

  6. Feel free to bring me along the next time you head Italian. I'll carry your bags.

  7. Yeah, what's to say, right? It was pretty sublime... reading, hiking, eating, relaxing, sunning - gelato, nature, pasta, summer... how I loved it! From Cali, I think the hardest part of going home will be giving up these travels. Not only the accessibility of all these amazing destinations, but the five weeks of vacation time in which to do it.

  8. I LOVE Capri. And your photos evoke it so well -- and reminded me of a very happy few days. Did you buy a pair of Jackie O. sandals in Anacapri? The man told me mine would last five years -- "and then you come back to buy another pair." Your post reminds me that it's time for another pair. :)

  9. Dear Mrs. Amy,
    thank you for hiking on the "Sentiero dei Fortini". We are proud that you enjoyed our ceramic books and pannels. Hope to have you soon back here on our paradise island.
    We wish you all the best
    Cordiali saluti
    Sergio Rubino and Silke Weigand